Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide's national range for installed spray foam is $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot, with closed-cell at the higher end, and job minimums of $1,000 to $2,000 or more are common. For your house, the written estimate we give you after the visit is the price.

Usually because of a bad install (foam that was mixed wrong, shrank or smells), because it was sprayed over a roof leak that later caused rot, or because a renovation needs access. HomeGuide lists removal at about $1.00 to $2.50 per square foot, which is why careful installation matters.

Mainly because poorly installed foam can hide problems, especially on roof decks, and some inspectors and buyers want to see the deck. We check the roof and framing before spraying and document the work.

Yes. We blow dense-pack cellulose into the stud bays through small holes, usually from outside under the siding, then plug and patch them.

Contractors buy two-part foam in drum sets, and pricing varies by product and supplier, so we do not quote material prices. What matters to you is the installed price per space, which we put in writing.

For spray foam, yes. HomeGuide advises staying out at least 24 hours. For blown-in insulation, you can usually stay home.

Two-part spray foam systems come from several national chemical makers. We choose products rated for the use and apply any thermal or ignition barrier the product listing and code require.

Yes, either by foaming the crawl space walls and sealing the space, or by foaming the underside of the floor.

Cured foam is inert; the precautions are for the spraying and curing period.

In open walls, yes. In closed walls, dense-pack plus sealing outlet boxes helps.

No. The holes are small and the material is packed carefully. Interior patches may need touch-up paint.

We lift a course, drill through the sheathing and re-hang the siding.

Not while it is live. An electrician should evaluate it first.

It is treated for fire resistance and is widely used in walls.

Ohio's code lists R-49 for Zone 5A ceilings; ENERGY STAR suggests R-60 for an empty attic in an existing home.

Air leaks carry heat and moisture past insulation. Sealing makes the insulation work.

Usually yes, if the old material is dry and clean.

Most attics are done in a day.

In a damp crawl space, sealing and insulating it usually makes floors warmer and the house less musty. HomeGuide lists encapsulation at $3 to $10 per square foot.

Not until the leak is fixed. Foam handles damp air, not running water.

In occupied spaces, most foams need a thermal barrier.

We seal the rim and sill above them and check the stone for moisture.

Yes. Foam bonded to the steel removes the cold surface where condensation forms.

It depends on use: thin for condensation control, more for a heated shop.

Yes, with heat in the building if needed.

Yes, noticeably.

Water stains, a matted look, droppings, odor or mold are the usual signs.

No. It should be tested and handled by an asbestos abatement contractor.

Vacuum removal keeps it contained; we protect the path through the house.

Sometimes only a damaged section.